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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Changed the timing belt, tensioners, water pump and aux belt. A nice knuckle scraping job since space is tight and everything is either sharp metal or plastic.

Hidden away at the back:

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Looks very naked without the wheel liner:

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Oddly the belt and rollers were all in very good condition. Over 9 years old, 122k miles and no play or roughness in any of the rollers, old belt looked reasonable too:

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Well done David - a job well worth doing, I always do mine early so it will probably be 30k or so sooner than yours but for what it costs to do yourself I think it's well worth it. Neighbours BMW broke its cam chain at 62k and did £4k of damage (I did think cam chains were better but not in BMW's case as his sons BMW broke its chain at 72K as well and his car has been sold as a non runner)
 

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I'd been on my mind for a while, just not had the weather or time until just now. But with lockdown and working from home, the use is quite low. I've had belts break before in my younger days, just meant stripping the head of and replacing valves and seats. That was on cars you could see the engine and head without the need for taking all the modern gubbins off the top.

I know we've mentioned it before, but the huge variation in the handbooks over recommended replacement schedule doesn't help decide when it should be done.

Cam chains seem to have a real bad rep at the moment. Vauxhall had loads of failures when theyintroduced them, Nissan the same, most petrol jukes seem to be at risk, and Nissan resorted to changing the full engine in many cases. We had a diesel juke and was happy it had a belt.
 

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Just for completeness, coolant filling pain, one of the bleed screws is out of reach at the bulkhead on the top heater hose. Obvioulsy designed for skinny french arms, because mine didn't fit!!

Filling head must be a a bit above the engine to bleed it right. Obviously you cant get the special PSA filling tool, so some DIY improvising.

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Bleed point roughly about a foot behind the brake fluid reservoir.
 

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Just for completeness, coolant filling pain, one of the bleed screws is out of reach at the bulkhead on the top heater hose. Obvioulsy designed for skinny french arms, because mine didn't fit!!

Filling head must be a a bit above the engine to bleed it right. Obviously you cant get the special PSA filling tool, so some DIY improvising.

View attachment 906

Bleed point roughly about a foot behind the brake fluid reservoir.
I noticed the sound insulation above the strut has rotted. Mine has gone the same way due to a complete disregard for diverting rain water away from perishable materials. A cheap plastic lining would have cured it.
 
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